Monday, February 16, 2009

Siena, First Impressions


Ciao a tutti,
I am Daniel and this is my travel blog. I've been studying in Tuscany since early January through a program called the Richmond School of London. We lived in Siena for three weeks in order to acclimate ourselves to the Italian way of life and to take an accelerated language course.

Siena is a lovely little Medieval town. It enjoyed its heyday during the late Middle Ages and was the formidable enemy Florence. We all know who won that one. But, by and by, Siena has largely survived the years as a beautiful, stylish, even fiercely proud community in the hills of Toscana.


Siena is known for several things which make it unique:
Piaza del Campo-a large, shell-shaped, sloped piaza. Known as one of the finest piazas in Italy, il Campo embodies a feeling unlike others I later came to see. Its forward slope invites all to sit and relax, together. Few other piazas throughout the country enjoy this collective ambeince.

Some local kids smokin' cigarettes in the Campo.
Il Palio-a huge Medieval festival highlighted by two intense horse races around the Campo. On the 2nd of July and 16th of August every year, ten horses, selected from the seventeen districts (contrade) of Siena storm around the Campo in a huge display of district loyalty, historic pride, and of course public drunkenness.

The Carabinieri: Italy's fierce polizia

Il Torre del Mangia-one of the tallest towers of Medieval Italy. Beautiful to gaze at in the changing light and a treat for art history majors for its crenelations, machicolations, crests, shields, and proportion.

Il Torre

It is amazing to realize that Siena is a fully functioning Medieval town. Simply walking through the narrow streets is enough to imagine this town bustling with horses, peasants on pilgrimages, and medieval knights.

Feed the pigeons and incur a fine, or so say the Carabinieri.

The food is heavy but simple. The meals are typically Tuscan with a Primi Piati, Secondo Piato and wine. The first course might be Pappa al Pomodoro, bread soup made with garlic and olive oil or Crostini, toasted bread with lightly chopped chicken liver. The second course could include Pici, thick noodles similar to Japanese udon, with wild boar sauce or Bistecca alla fiorentina and of course the local Chianti or Brunello di Montalcino.


The people of Siena are proud to put it kindly. As an American student, I got looks. As hard as I tried to fit in or even deceive the locals of my true ethnicity, they were quick to judge. The Sienese have been described as disapproving parents. Once they recognize that you are not from Siena, let alone an American, they put on a disapproving face that is almost comical. Nonetheless, my short stay there was a treat. My Italian improved, I loved the food, and I'll certainly be back for the Palio ... someday.